1. The "Quince" Scented Ancient Heritage of the Aegean: Kidonia
When Ayvalık is mentioned, golden beaches and Cunda dinner tables might immediately come to mind. However, the soul of this city dates back thousands of years to the scent of the fruit it was named after. In ancient times, Ayvalık was known as Kidonia (Kydonia), which literally meant "wild quince." This etymological origin, persisting since 330 BC, proves that the city is not just a holiday resort, but an ancient settlement whose name is kneaded with nature. Knowing that you are walking upon a "quince-scented" history as you stroll through its narrow streets changes the atmosphere of the city instantly.
2. Turkey's First Strait Bridge is NOT in Istanbul!
Hidden within the tranquil geography of Ayvalık is an engineering marvel that made history in Turkish transportation.
Contrary to popular belief, Turkey's first strait bridge was not built in the crowded traffic of Istanbul, but in the serene landscape of Ayvalık. Completed in 1964, this bridge connects Alibey (Cunda) Island to Lale Island. Ayvalık possesses an enormous ecosystem consisting of 22 islands, and within this archipelago, Cunda is the only point open to settlement.
Each of the islands in the region has its own unique story. For instance, Tımarhane (Madhouse) Island, known locally as the Stone Monastery, hosted a curious "healing" tradition. It is told that during the Ottoman period, those who overindulged in alcohol were sent here to have their senses restored by the island's famous harsh winds. Today, this wind does not just cool you down; it makes you feel the fierce yet disciplinary side of the city.
3. A Global Industrial Giant: Banks, Consulates, and the Academy
While Ayvalık is today an aesthetic tourism paradise with its boutique hotels, in the 18th and 19th centuries, it was one of the richest industrial centers of the Aegean. Behind the town-like image we see today lies a hidden "metropolis" where soap boiled in factories, leather was processed in tanneries, and silk and wine were exported to the world.
To understand the global power Ayvalık held at that time, this data is sufficient: in the early 1900s, this small port city hosted branches of the Ottoman Bank as well as Athens and Vienna banks. France, Great Britain, Italy, and the Austro-Hungarian Empire maintained consulates in the city. Furthermore, it was not just an industrial city but a cultural capital; it had its own academy where philosophy, logic, and mathematics were taught. Those stone buildings we admire today are the legacy of this global wealth.
4. Macaron Street's Triad: "The Dead, the Crazy, and the Cat"
The heart of Ayvalık beats in the Macaron Neighborhood. However, to understand the spirit of this neighborhood, one must know the local saying, blended with fine humor: "It is famous for its dead, its crazy, and its cats." The locals explain this by the presence of an elderly population large enough for a funeral nearly every day (the dead), the eccentric characters you encounter on every street (the crazy), and the hundreds of feline friends sunbathing in front of every house (the cats).
Ahmet Cavlı (Ahmet Abi), a local tradesman who witnessed the neighborhood's transformation firsthand, describes the change from the old tannery days to the present:
"Before, in the time of the Greeks, there were 3 tanneries here in Macaron... After the 1980s, we broke this structure, adapted our families here, and the family became a Macaron. When new venues started opening, I became the 'Center.' I didn't change the coffee house; everyone turned into cafes, but I didn't want to turn into a cafe."
5. Gastronomic Depth Beyond the Toast: Papalina and Verjuice
Limiting Ayvalık cuisine only to its toast would be an injustice to its rich gastronomy. As a gastronomy writer, I must say that the flavors here have a nostalgic depth. The lead actor of Ayvalık tables is the Papalina (sprat) fish, found only in these waters and eaten crispy after being fried in olive oil with flour.
As for desserts, Curd (Lor) Cookies and Almond Pudding—reminiscent of the rice-flour milk puddings of our childhood—stand out. That lingering soft taste of rice flour in the pudding is the flavor that best suits the quiet evenings of Ayvalık. This feast should be accompanied by the legendary, refreshing Koruk Suyu (Verjuice) obtained from unripe grapes or the region's dense black mulberry syrup.
6. The Numerical Power of Olive Forests: 2.5 Million Trees
Ayvalık breathes not just through tourism, but through the "liquid gold" in its soil. Olive oil, the lifeblood of the district, is more of a lifestyle than an industry.
- • Olive Presence: There are approximately 2.5 million olive trees in the district.
- • Industrial Landscape: This structure, where olive groves intertwine with the urban fabric, is Ayvalık's strongest foundation in its journey toward UNESCO status.
- • Diversity: Olives appear in every form, not just as oil; from soap to cologne, and even olive ice cream, which has become a favorite in recent years.
7. Devil’s Table: The Geological Reality in the Shadow of Mythology
Devil’s Table (Şeytan Sofrası) is not just a tourist lookout point for watching sunsets. It is actually an ancient lava deposit. When the famous "footprint" mythology of the hilltop is combined with the geological reality of its volcanic past, a fascinating atmosphere emerges. Looking out from here, Lesvos and the 22 islands of Ayvalık unfold before you as if from a painter's brush. This view silently whispers why Ayvalık has been on the UNESCO World Heritage Tentative List since 2017.
Conclusion
Ayvalık is one of the rare geographies that has managed to transform its industrial past into a cultural aesthetic. Preserving this heritage means keeping a spirit alive, not just buildings.
As you get lost in the narrow, cobblestone streets of Ayvalık, have you ever wondered if you are just a vacationer or a witness to a story thousands of years old?
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