Izmir's Gastronomy Guide: A Synthesis of Cultures from Street Flavors to Aegean Tables

Izmir's cuisine is not just about fresh Aegean herbs; this table is a unique synthesis of legacies left by Sephardic Jews, Cretan immigrants, and Levantine communities who settled in the city over centuries. This multicultural structure makes Izmir stand out with its rich stewed dishes and its world-renowned street flavors.

1. The Ancient Ritual of Morning: Boyoz and Sübye

The greatest ritual that begins with the first light of morning in Izmir is Boyoz, introduced by the Sephardic Jews who migrated from Spain in 1492. Derived from the Spanish word "Bollos" meaning "small loaves," this unleavened pastry is inseparable from baked eggs. The most special drink that balances this heavy and oily delicacy is Sübye, obtained by pounding dried melon seeds and boiling them with water and sugar; it is a refreshing drink that survives today only in the hands of a few masters.

2. The City of Names: Gevrek and Kumru

In Izmir, terminology differs; here, a bagel is called Gevrek, and a sandwich is called Kumru. What distinguishes Izmir's Gevrek is that the molasses process is done hot; the dough is dipped in hot molasses, sprinkled with sesame seeds, and baked twice to achieve its signature crispiness.

Kumru has two different spirits:

• Breakfast Kumru: The epitome of simplicity, featuring traditional chickpea-leavened bread filled with Izmir Tulum cheese, tomatoes, and green peppers.
• Hot Kumru: The modern, fast, yet delicious face of Izmir, where deli meats are cooked over charcoal.

3. Culinary Stops Where Offal Becomes Art: Söğüş and Kokoreç

Izmir-style Kokoreç differs from Istanbul's; it is served sliced into rings rather than finely chopped, emphasizing the taste of lamb intestines. Another legend, Söğüş, involves boiling a lamb's head (tongue, brain, cheeks), cooling it, and then making it into a wrap with plenty of greens and cumin. Watching the dexterity of the artisans preparing these wraps in the narrow streets of Kemeraltı is as enjoyable as the taste itself.

4. A Golden City Classic: Şambali

It's impossible to talk about Izmir cuisine without mentioning Şambali, a staple from the streets of Kemeraltı. This heavy but enchanting dessert, made with semolina, sugar, and yogurt without eggs or flour, is served with a single peanut on top and optional buffalo cream spread inside. Şambali is the sweetest symbol of Izmir's artisan culture and its tradition of quick, delicious bites.

5. The Peninsula's Golden Water: Olive Oil and Herbs

The true "health" recipe of Izmir cuisine comes from the ancient olive trees along the Urla and Peninsula route. This land, home to one of the world's oldest olive oil workshops (Klazomenai), elevates its cuisine with olive oil-based dishes. Şevketi Bostan, considered the "king of herbs," cooked with lamb and served as a stew, is the jewel of Izmir's taverns. In addition, wild herbs like sea beans, chicory, and radish greens are not just side dishes but main characters of the Izmir table.

6. Aegean Blue and Fish Tables

From the white-tablecloth restaurants on Kordon to the casual fish shacks of Urla and Karaburun, a rich fish culture dominates the city. Depending on the season, Sea Bream (Lidaki) and Sea Bass are the stars. However, for those seeking an Izmir-specific touch, Sea Bass Simit (fish wrapped in phyllo dough) or Mussel Salad (Midye Salma) are creative Aegean flavors that must be tried.